Lisbon hotels

It takes patience to find this hotel, tucked amongst the labyrinthine alleys of the Alfama district. But, once you do, you’ll feel smug about your choice. One of the best design hotels in Lisbon, Memmo Alfama is chic and sleek. Bedrooms are minimalist in bleached woods and shades of white. They’re very calming, even if some are on the small side.

Most guests spend their time outside. One of the best hotels in Lisbon, its terraces give fantastic views over the Alfama district—among the city's oldest—with its tumble of red roofs and sugar-white buildings.

There’s a large dining area inside, but I ate outdoors to enjoy the views. Suppers are simple but tasty, made up of Portuguese tapas—perfect to go with the splendid wine selection. My tip is to get up early and take a dip in the pool; it gets the best sun in the mornings.

This is the best hotel in Lisbon if you want to be in the heart of the action. The celebrated Pink Street, with its numerous bars, is just behind, while the River Tagus waterfront is minutes from the front.

The blue and white colours of the facades—the hotel is made up of two townhouses—continues inside. Softer blues are found in the bedrooms alongside simple white-painted furniture. The feel is cool and breezy, though the pod-like bathrooms might come as a shock. Their glass walls are open to the bedroom, with blinds for modesty.

If you’re not into late-night partying, I’d recommend a room at the back or on the quieter upper floors. Breakfasts are fabulous, and there’s sushi on the menu in the evening. I loved the complimentary glass of port and "pastel de nata" (traditional custard tarts) offered to guests each day.

One of Lisbon’s most delightful hotels, As Janelas Verdes ticks all the boxes for traditional Portuguese charm. Set in the embassy district of Lapa and next door to the National Ancient Art Museum, this 18th-century townhouse is wonderfully peaceful.

One of the best hotels in Lisbon, everything about As Janelas Verdes has a quiet elegance, from the panelled library and uniformed staff to the softly carpeted bedrooms. With pretty-patterned wallpapers, comfortable armchairs and the occasional antique, they’re soothing after a hot day seeing Lisbon’s sights. I loved the monogrammed towels in the spacious bathrooms.

But my favourite part of the hotel—aside from the rooftop terrace (with honesty bar) overlooking the river—was the walled courtyard. Breakfast here is a treat, a wonderful spread of fruit salads, breads, cheeses and pastries. And the best thing is, you can take as long as you like.

Sleek and smart, this hotel is named after the equally smart street on which it stands. One of the best hotels in Lisbon, it’s in the centre of the city on a grand and leafy avenue, surrounded by designer shops.

The streets outside may be bustling, but I found the hotel—in a grand 18th-century mansion—offered a calm escape. I particularly liked the welcoming glass of port. Inside, it’s a mix of old and new, with traditional "azulejo" tiling and polished wood floors, together with bright sofas and marble-topped tables.

As one of the best luxury hotels in Lisbon, its guestrooms are big, comfortable spaces with warm wood, neutral tones and floor-to-ceiling windows. It’s breakfast only, but the staff will happily advise on the myriad of eating choices within a 10-minute walk.

This hotel is so discrete, tucked in a corner of a quiet but grand square near the river, that I almost walked past it. Despite its central position, it’s away from the tourists and makes a great choice if you want luxurious convenience without the crowds.

Inside the 18th-century building, original features have been preserved and boldly blended with contemporary design. So, you’ll find stone-flagged floors, stone pillars and raftered ceilings contrasted with whitewashed walls, bright pink chairs and modern art.

Guestrooms come in quirky shapes to fit the rooms of the original building. They’re bold in monochrome colours with glossy furniture; I particularly liked the startling black and white bathrooms. Dine on typical Portuguese dishes at the on-site restaurant Delfina and ask for an outside table—it’s much more fun.

Many Lisboans like to spend their downtime at the seaside, especially at Cascais (pronounced "cashkeye"), less than 30 minutes from the city centre by train. One of the best hotels in Lisbon for lazy days at the beach—there are two beaches right in the town, and more nearby—is Villa Vasco da Gama.

Hidden amongst the narrow streets of the old town, this cream-washed traditional villa surprises with its cool, designer looks. Spacious bedrooms have a monochrome palette of grey, white and black, pale wood floors and Scandi-style furnishings.

Bold geometric wallpapers or bright striped cushions add some fun, while bathrooms are sleek and modern. I was fortunate to have a room with direct access to the garden, with its circular dipping pool.

Breakfasts are a delicious feast of fruits, cheeses and pastries, which I loved eating in the garden. The hosts will point you to the best restaurants—seafood is a speciality here.

True to the form of the other hotels in the Mama Shelter group, Mama Shelter Lisboa is bright, fun and full of jokes to make you smile. I certainly did when I spotted the jolly masks hanging on the bedside lamps, and the fish-painted ceiling in the restaurant.

One of the best hotels in Lisbon, Mama Shelter packs a punch in the colour department. In the bedrooms, you’ll find green seaweed shaped lampshades, swirly wave-like blue and white painted floor tiles and palm-print cushions.

The restaurant is a riot of tropical-print cushions, patterned wall tiles and mix-and-match chairs. Pizzas are the big thing here, as well as a modern take on Portuguese tapas. Plus, expect DJ nights and live bands. There’s music at the rooftop bar too, my favourite place for a cocktail.

This is arguably one of the best hotels in Lisbon for location. Set in the central square—Praca do Comercio—this is the historical heart of the city, with arcaded 18th-century buildings (former government offices) on three sides and the River Tagus opposite.

A grand building, it has retained its historical integrity while being carefully modernized. I love the mix of old and new here: classic and contemporary art, sleek white sofas next to gilded plasterwork wall panels in the lounge, smart red dining chairs beneath brickwork vaulting in the restaurant. The latter is one for meat lovers, with its large selection of steaks. Breakfast is a generous buffet served in a glass-roofed courtyard.

One of the best luxury hotels in Lisbon, the guestrooms are sleek and understated, with wooden flooring, neutral colours and marble-clad bathrooms. Ask for a river-view room.

Despite its central location near the busy Avenida de Liberdade, this hotel is astonishingly calm. Behind its 18th-century façade, interiors are full of natural light and natural materials: think wood, stone and plenty of open-plan spaces. I could feel the tension from the hassles of travelling float away as I entered. As a result, I wasn’t surprised to learn that much of the hotel’s design is based on Feng Shui principles.

The hotel has solar panels, water-saving devices and eco-friendly detergents. Coffee grounds and part-used soaps are both recycled. Beautifully light and uncluttered guestrooms make good use of natural materials, and there are great gluten-free, vegan and vegetarian choices on the restaurant’s menu.

One of the best hotels in Lisbon with a spa, this is the perfect spot to relax after a long day of sightseeing.

Opposite one of the city’s famous "miradours", or viewpoints, the Independente is on a hill on the edge of the Principe Real district, but well worth the climb (there’s also a funicular and trams to make it easier). Converted from two 19th-century mansions, this is one of Lisbon’s best hotels for bohemian charm, with vintage furnishings mixed with grand stucco ceilings and parquet flooring.

You can either stay here cheaply in one of the "dorms"—rooms with bunk-beds and shared bathrooms—or in one of the suites. The former are bright and breezy while the latter offer a mix of antique and vintage furniture. Whichever you choose, all the rooms have the height, grandeur and tall windows of the original buildings.

Dine either downstairs in Decadente, with grills and seafood, or in the top-floor Insolito. I loved the latter for its brightly coloured, quirkily decorated terrace overlooking the city.